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(Autor Gabriel Ordinas Marcé)
1. EL PORT DE SÓLLER
This walk begins at the restaurant Marisol, which maintains the features of a railway station as designed in 1913. Leaving behind a first set of souvenir shops and other commercial establishments to the right, turn left and then walk along the moll de Fora (the outside port) which vas built between 1930 and1935 to enlarge and modernize la Riba, the old commercial dock where the typical ships Llaüts, xabecs and pailebots and the brigantines and steam boats were loaded with carob bean, citrus fruit and other products of the valley and shipped to the East of Spain and the South of France. Here you can board any of the touristic boats which will take you on stunning trips to different points of the North Coast of the Island: Torrent de Pareis, sa Calobra, Tuent, Cala Deià, Sa Foradada or Sant Elm.
Follow the shore past the dry dock, where ships are repaired, painted and restored, and then walk past the fish market and the fishermen's port.
Next, visit the Santa Caterina quarter, a typical maritime neighbourhood to round up this insight into the fisherman's life. The visit starts walking up the street or carrer de Santa Catalina, at the corner with camí des Cingle, where the ground floors of a series of modernist buildings from the first decades of the 20th century accommodate the last of the shops which line up facing the shore. The corbels that support the balcony of el Pirata (Santa Caterina, 8), as well as the facade of Can Cardell (Santa Caterina, 18), are specially interesting. They reproduce fishes and a lion. Take a left hand turn up the first set of stairs by a small public fountain leading into carrer de Sant Ramon de Penyafort. At the end of the street you can see the oratory bearing the same name flanked by two cypresses. The Oratory of Sant Ramon de Penyafort, of neoclassic style, was built halfway through the 17th century thanks to the donations of the fishermen, near the spot where the legend places the stone from which the saint started his crossing to Barcelona. The very simple facade is rendered and whitewashed. It only has two openings a lintel led portal and an upper skylight made of coloured glass. Inside, a barrel vault covers the one nave of rectangular ground plan. This building has remained closed since 1936 and was annexed closed since 1936 and was annexed by the Marine Ministry. Due to the annexation, the main chapel altarpiece was moved to the Church of Sant Ramon. The restoration plan of the maritime facade of the Port envisages restoring the Oratory.
Next walk up the small set of steps on the side, take a left turn into carrer de Santa Apol.lònia, which rises up to the mirador of Santa Caterina, trying not to miss any of the details and ornaments that give a special touch to the maritime quarter. Then walk up the newly restored carrer de Llevant, linking with carrer de Mallorca, arriving at the square or Miranda de Santa Caterina. From this lookout-point, which the fishermen use to watch the weather, there is a beautiful view, facing north, of the sea and the cliffs lining the mouth of the port. The old Oratory of Santa Caterina stands on the East, built in the 13th century, destroyed by the Algerian pirates captained by Dragut in 1542 and rebuilt eight years later. This Oratory vas a place of great worship during the Middle Ages and was the main pilgrimage point in the valley of Sóller. It is being rebuilt again since 1998. Still remaining are a semicircular eaved portal and a round window of what used to be the defence tower (16th century), as well as the apse facade of the chapel, with a loophole-shapedwindow, and the pinnacles and the round-arched belfry that used to house the bell. To the right of the portal, there is a stone cross (1692) crowned by a sculpted Christ on one side, the Holy Sacrament on the other and a floral decoration at the end of both arms. Walk through the portal and you will see the tower barrel vault and the cistern, underneath the floor. Once in the courtyard, on the right you will see the chapel (16th century) incorporating architectonic elements from different periods. Next comes the passage leading to the restaurant and the viewpoint hall, the niche built into the wall which shows the image of Santa Caterina and the round portal into the garden.
Leaving behind the Chapel and the viewpoint, walk left down carrer de Santa Caterina, stopping at the gardens on the right to take a look at the views of the bat and the roofs of the maritime quarter, and also at the modernist building just behind you (Santa Caterina, 48). Next comes Can Codony (Santa Caterina, 44), a house built by Master Antoni Vicens in 1908.
Keep Sa Posada de s'Artesà to the left (Marina, 16) and walk 100 metres to reach carrer de Jaume Torrens, a pedestrian street with many restaurants, stores and food shops leading into the square or Plaça Joan Miró. Bear right and walk up the carrer de Canonge Oliver, leading straight to the Parish Church of Sant Ramon de Penyafort, past the Casa del Mar (Canonge Oliver, 14). The building of the Church was started in 1938. The belfry (1964) stands on the left side. It is square-shaped, up to the last section, where it becomes octagonal. The Church is formed by a nave of rectangular ground plan covered by a double sloped roof. At both sides of the nave there are rectangular chapels dedicated to Jesus of Nazareth, Santa Caterina d'Alexandria, Mare de Déu del Carme, Sant Ramon de Penyafort and Sant Antoni de Viana. There are also a side portal and a sacristy.
The small altarpiece of Santa Caterina de Alexandria is quite remarkable. It was created in 1574 by carpenter Llucià Arbona and painter Mateu López and brought from the main chapel of the Oratory of Santa Caterina. The wooden renaissance altarpiece is dedicated to Santa Caterina d'Alexandria with a beautifully polychromatic statue. It is also worth mentioning the wooden altarpiece of the Chapel of Sant Ramon de Penyafort, which vas brought here from the main chapel of the Oratory of Sant Ramon (17th century).
The presbitery, in the main chapel, is dedicated to sant Crist de la Salut with a large statue (17th century) from the Chapel of the Sisters of Charity of Sóller. The baptismal font is placed on the right of the presbytery and, on the left, there is a large copper cauldron used by the fishermen to dye their nets brown with the bark of the pine tree, and nowadays used as decoration.
Once out of the Parish Church, follow carrer de Canonge Oliver and, after crossing the stream or Torrent de la Figuera, turn left and walk up the steps, after passing by the shops, leading to the estate or possesió del Port. The estate house, now turned into Hotel Es Port, maintains most of the character and elegance typical of the small palaces of the countryside going back to the 17thand 18th centuries. Opposite the open area with a rich and well-cared for garden, the defence tower stands with a square ground plan and covered with a double slopedtile roof. It was built because of the need to have a fortification and aplace for the population to take refuge in case of invasion. Inside, there is a groin vault room with a keystone incorporating Jesus' anagram, which must have been the former chapel. Enter the house (1614-1646) through a portal with a round arch after crossing a wrought iron gate opening on the right to the stables for cattle and horses. The rectangular church, built in 1728, stands to the left of the wrought iron gate. The altarpiece of baroque style features Sant Josep holding the infant Jesus by the hand.
Through the left portal enter the old kitchen, now turned into the hotel reception, still preserving the peasant's kitchen and the plaster benches, as well as tools and weapons from the 17th and 18th century. The door at the end leads to the cellar, where in the past there was a receptacle to press and boil the must (1747). From here you can reach the oil mill which remains almost intact.
Leaving Hotel Es Port, walk down the steps again and along the pavement lined by shops and reach the front line of the beach. Then take a left hand turn and follow the walk along the sea front. Once at the embarcador des Través, just opposite the port mouth, stop a moment to look at three remarkable buildings. The lighthouse or farola de sa Punta Grossa o des cap Gros, finished in 1859, sands to the left of the port mouth. On the other side, lower down, the remains of the old lighthouse des Bufador o de sa Creu can be made out, located at only four metres above the shore. They rest on the vault of a natural cave which can only be reached from the sea. The lighthouse was built between 1862 and 1864 based on the project designed by the engineer Emili Pou and is located 11 metres above sea level. When this lighthouse started to be unsafe for the lighthousekeeper, the present Farola de sa Creu was built beside the former one, which is slightly built-in. This tower was built between 1928 and 1930 but did not start functioning until 1945. It is cone-shaped and 13 metres high. Continue walking and arrive at plaça de la Torre, from where you reach a large wall to the right with a circular cross section. These are the remains of the tower or torre de l'Alcaid or castell del Port, built between 1543 and 1545 to stop further pirate raids, such as the one that caused the destruction of the Oratory of Santa Caterina the previous year. Nowadays the tower is privately owned and has been partially refurnished as a house. On the lintel there is the oldest-known heraldic shield of Sóller (1545).
The walk ends in this square by the tram stop.
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2. SÓLLER I (El carrer Isabel II, el Casal de Cultura and the Parish Church)
The starting point for this walk is the vest part of the town of Sóller, at the train station, where there are two plaques remembering train promoter Jeroni Estades and the poet of the orange trees of Sóller, Josep Lluís Pons i Gallarza. Go round Plaça Espanya on the left side and take a look on the right side a t a unique tourist information centre. It is a mail wagon of the year 1912 adapted to its new functions. From here, where you can enjoy excellent views of the church and the belfry, take a left turn into one of the most popular streets of the city, carrer d'Isabel II. Your first stop on the walk is the corner with carrer de Canals (Canals, 1) where the Posada de ca s'Hereu of baroque style was built around 1786, as shown on the window. The facade also provides a magnificent round stone portal and unique openings to the porch. There are plenty of other interesting spots in this street, like, for instance, the house where Guillem Colom Casasnoves was born, the coloured tiles on number 25, the little chapels of the Via crucis, the small modernist palace of Can Mart (number 29) or the Posada de Monnàber (number 37),where the poet and freeman of the town Guillem Colom i Ferran was born. Take a look at number 30 of the carrer d'Isabel II, casa de Cas Pué, and turn right and follow carrer Bisbe Nadal (a great benefactor of Sóller), carrer Volta Piquera, carrer Jesús and carrer de Can Tamany. At number 2 of this street the Posada de can Tamany stands with a noteworthy portal. Turn right at carrer Quadrado and facing the penyal de Migdia (Midday Cliff), walk round a baroque house located at number 9, Can Roses, with an interesting portal. In this street it is also worth mentioning the house al number 18, located in a small square. It features a round portal and a window dated 1744. the eave is made of wood.
You then reach one of the main arteries of Sóller, the Gran Via. At the same corner with carrer Quadrado you will be impressed by la Rectoria, an old building redesigned in 1896, and specially by the portal bearing a coat of arms and crowned by a false second floor. It is worth taking a look inside.
Next enjoy a charming walk under the trees of Gran Via, where most of the modernist houses are located. Pay attention to the gardens of Can Canals (number 8), the house of Can Dulce, Casal de Cultura, and Can Cremat, a stunning palace built in 1920, as well as other unique buildings. Also, take a look at the many iron elements on the house balconies and windows and at some public fountains.
At the end of Gran Via reach plaça d'Amèrica, where at number 1 you find Can Cetre, one of the finest modernist palaces in the town. Above all, take a look at the remarkable ceramic roof of the factory of sa Roqueta.
On the right side of plaça d'Amèrica, carrer Cetre links to another of the main arteries of Sóller, which leads to the port, now named carrer Mar. Follow it to walk back to the centre. Before that, though, take a look at the casa de la Diligència, s'Hostal, Can Canals, Can Puig and specially the Museu de Cultura. The outside of the casa de sa Diligència (number 44) is striking. Also worth taking a look at is s'Hostal at number 33, an interesting 16th century building recently restored. One of the best elements of the facade is the gothic portal. At the end of carrer Mar the Casal de Cultura (number 13) is a must. Enter the building through a semicircular portal crowned with the inscription '1740', possible date of building, and a coat of arms. Most of the museum is dedicated to ethnology, and you will find printing machinery, religious sculptures and carvings, ceramic collections, agricultural tools and even an old kitchen with all its cooking implements. There is a hall dedicated to archaeology and a chapel cowered by a two-section groin vault featuring a polychromatic carving of Sant Antoni Abat. There is also an interesting collection of votive offerings.
Once you have finished your visit to the museum, walk back along carrer Mar up to the circular portal at number 2 and take a right turn into carrer Romaguera. This street leads, after carefully crossing the tram rails, to the covered town market (right). It is worth visiting to buy some of the products grown in the valley. From plaça del Mercat, by a bridge with marvellous views, follow carrer Vives, a very old street which still maintains its cobble stone pavement and leads to plaça de la Constitució, the key centre of town with plenty of interesting buildings. If you are keen on details, look to the left for an image of Sant Sebastià inside a cavity in the wall. Among the buildings in the square, the Banc of Sóller and la casa de la Vila or Can Bordils are worth mentioning. But undoubtedly the most representative building in the square and the whole valley is the so-called cathedral of the mountains, the Parish Church of Sant Bartomeu. Before visiting the church, take a look at the portal (1733) of the Town Hall with the town shield, located in Carrer Jeroni Estades.
The Church as it is today is the result of consecutive building phases which have left their mark on the building and make it unique in the area. Going back in history, it seems that it could have been founded by the Provost of Tarragona around 1236. During the 14th century it was in a disgraceful state and vas rebuilt in the following century. Furing the 16th century the continuous lack of safety and the events of 1561 forced the construction of a small walled fort used as a refuge for the town people. The Church of the 15th century remained until the 17thcentury, when part of the Romanesque-gothic construction was demolished and substituted by the baroque section. A vault roof and the chapel del Roser were built, as well as changing the orientation of the Church. Finally, the last improvements were made to give the Church a modernist touch, according to the designs of architect Joan Rubió in 1904.
The building is of a baroque style with one nave over twenty metres high. The roof is divided by seven crossing sections. On the keystones you can make out Sant Bartomeu, la Mare de Déu de Bonany, the Sóller shield, la Mare de Déu de la Victòria, Sant Pere and la mare de Déu d'Alabastre. Behind the Church lies the old town graveyard.
The chapels on the right are dedicated to baptism, the Heart of Jesus, Sant Pere, the Rosary, Sant sebastià and Sant Antoni. On the left side, the chapels honour les Ànimes, la Mare de Déu dels Dolors, la Mare de Déu del Carmen, the name of Jesus, la Immaculada Concepció, Sant Josep and Sant Joan Baptista. The main chapel can be found at the back, lined by the altarpieces of Sant Gregori Magne and the Sacred Family. The sacristy is by the main chapel. The Chapel of Baptism was built during the modernist improvements. Its altarpiece is the old portal of the baroque church by Master Lluc Mesquida (1747). In the chapel of the Heart of Jesus, blessed in 1913, the carving of the sculptor Josep Llimona stands out. In the chapel of Sant Pere, an image of the Saint by sculptor Guillem Galmés with the statues of two physician saints, Cosme and Damià, is prominent. The chapel of the Rosary is the largest of the lateral chapels. It has a latin cross ground plan and is covered by a barrel vault. It was created by Master Lluc Mesquida and contains several images. The altarpiece goes back to the 18th century and is centered around the Saint's image, la Mare de Déu del Roser. The chapel of Sant Sebastià and Sant Antoni belong to the 18th century, although the carving of Sant Antoni was made by Guillem Galmés at the beginning of the 20th century. In between these two chapels, the upper marble portal, with a baroque style, leads to the old graveyard. The altarpiece of Sant Gregori Magne, restored in 1937, is dedicated to the Saint. A gothic sculpture of la Mare de Déu desecrated by the Moors in 1561 leaps to the eye. The other altarpiece adjoining the main chapel is dedicated to the Sacred Family.
Of large bulk in the main chapel is a baroque altarpiece created by Masters Lluc Mesquida and Damià Oliver, as well as other sculptors and painters. The statue of Sant Bartomeu was made by Joan de la Concha (1738), while la Mare de Déu de Bonany belongs to the sculptor Guillem Carbonell. The presbytery was created in the 19th century with red and black marble and on the vault you can see the Sóller shield with the finishing date of the main altar in 1947.
The sacristy, originally planned as a refuge, keeps many valuables, among which the gothic panel of Sant Bernardí stands out. On the left wing, the first chapel, fruit of the modernist improvements, is de les Ànimes. It holds a carving of the sant Crist present at the procession on Good Friday. The cave of Bethlehem stands by this chapel. Nest comes the chapel of la mare de Déu dels Dolors featuring a 20th century carving. A Mare de Déu d'Alabastre going back to the 14th century lies by the carving's feet. In the chapel of the Mare de Déu del Carme, a 18th century polychromatic wood carving of the Saint stands prominent. Next is the chapel of the Name of Jesus with a 19th century altarpiece made of stone and mortar. You will also find a carving of Sant Marçal by Josep Llimona. The image by Salvador Torres prominent in the chapel of the Immaculada Concepció also belongs to the 19th century. The last Chapels are those of Sant Josep and Sant Joan Baptista, located where the former main altar used to be.
Once you have finished the visit to the church, follow the tram rails to reach Sóller train station again, the starting point of this walk through the town.
Saturday is the best day to do this walk since it is market day and the stalls spread out from the building, occupying the nearby streets.
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3. SÓLLER II (Ses Escolàpies, la Sang and les posades)
This second walk through the town of Sóller takes place along the east part of the town. Once more, the starting point is the train station. Walk across plaça d'Espanya,where a monument to the victims of the Spanish Civil War (1940) stands out prominently. Number 14 in this same square shows one of the many details of Sóller architecture, one of the small chapels of Via Crucis that used to link the Church of Sant Bartomeu with the Franciscan Convent of Jesus. In front of you, the church belfry rises with all its magnificence. It has five different altitudes crowned by a pyramidal neogothic dome. The money raised by local emigrants was crucial to finish this construction around 1900. Just by the graveyard and the belfry follow carrer de Santa Bàrbara and then carrer de Joan Baptista Ensenyat. Go round the back of the Church following the itinerary of the Via Crucis and observe up to three more small chapels. You then reach the square, a beautiful spot where most of the town's social life takes place. In the middle of the square there are two more interesting items. One is the fountain commissioned by Bishop Bernat Nadal in 1815 and the other is the spring that, like many others in the town, constantly provides water for the visitors. Opposite small chapel number 1, the Banc de Sóller rises impressively, a modernist building constructed with the collaboration of Joan Rubió. The building was inaugurated in 1912, although the bank was founded in 1889 with the money of the homecoming emigrants. On the facade, the double balcony topped with the inscription BANCO SOLLER and the lion and the sun forming the shield of the city are remarkable. Also observe the forgings on the windows of high quality standards. Continue now along carrer de Bonany up to carrer de Metge Mayol. Take a look at number 2, hiding a small chapel with a 19th century image of Sant Sebastià. Remember that Sant Sebastià used to be the advocate against the Plague. Walk back to carrer Bonany that leads you into carrer Sant Bartomeu and look up when you arrive at number 7. It is the house of Cas Boter, which presents an interesting set of painted tiles on the eave of the facade. Among the variety of features to be made out, the inscription ALS 251797 A.S stands out, which gives an indication of the roof building date, and other plant ornamentations. A bit further on, to the right, you can see one of the posades you will walk past during the itinerary. The main valley estates used to own a posada in the town to use as a second home and also as a symbol of power and opulence. At number 24 you can see the posada de Cas Xorc, recognizable by its medieval portal with a voussoir round arch. Leaving behind a few round stone portals take a look at carrer de Sant Joan, which still maintains a cobble stone pavement. After passing carrer Batac, carrer de Sant Bartomeu leads into carrer del Bisbe Mateu Colom.
The Chapel de ses Escolàpies, one of the most singular buildings on the walk, rises to the left. It is the former convent of the community of mothers or mares Escolàpies. The building now houses the town library, the nursing home and the health centre. Among the items still remaining from the old building, the convent main portal and the chapel, now used for cultural functions, stand out. The chapel designed by Bartomeu Ferrà is of neogothic style with a rectangular ground plan divided by three lancet arches. The wooden neogothic altarpiece is also remarkable. It is dedicated to the verge Santíssima, whose image is flanked by Sant Josep Obrer and Sant Josep de Calassanç. Continue the walk along carrer Bisbe Colom, who vas Bishop of Osca, and turn left at carrer de Josep Rullan i Mir, honouring the name of the most significant Sóller historians. Before that, though, take a look at the gates of Can Cambuix, that enclose the house back garden. Follow carrer Rullan i Mir and reach carrer de la Lluna, one of the most remarkable old streets in Sóller, where you turn left. The next monument, after going past the facade of Can Cambuix (number 128), is Can Prunera (number 90), considered to be one of the finest modernist facades in the town. Built between 1909 and 1911, it is an excellent combination of stone, iron and even wood. In this house, the doorway and the fact that it conserves a good sample of modernist furniture are to be highlighted. Following carrer de la Lluna you find a series of interesting items. Two houses of regional style, Can Mossana and Can Moana (numbers 71 and 69) place you opposite the Chapel of el sant Crist, which recalls a mystery that look place in the 16th century according to which the sant Crist sweated blood. Past another of the public springs in the town, reach la casa de la Lluna (number 50). Despite the age of the house, going back to the 15th century, it seems that the name of the street is even older. On the facade, the voussoir portal, the window on the first floor and the curious half relief of an ashar moon stand out. Now turn right into carrer de l'Hospici, an atmospheric medieval street with a good cobble stone pavement. This street is lined with interesting buildings such as the residència de Nostra Dona de la Victòria, the Church de la Sang del Hospital and the Posada de Moncaire. The residència de nostra Dana de ka Vuctòria takes up the site of the old Hospital desl Pobres (1234), on the right side of the street. The Church of la Sang de l'Hospital stands by the Residència. The original building was built to conmemorate the victory over the Turks in the 16th century. In the 19th century it was rebuilt in neoclassic style. On the inside, the rectangular ground plan, the barrel vault on the roof and the carving of la Sang de Jesucrist of the 16th century, enclosed in the altarpiece of the main chapel, are remarkable. The church has no lateral chapels but cavities in the walls with the images of Sant Antoni de Pàdua, Nostra Senyora de la Victòria and Santa Rita de Càssia. On theother side of the street, opposite the residència, you can see another striking building, Posada de Montcaire at number 7. The house goes back to the end of the 18th century when baroque gave way to neoclassicism. Take a look at the magnificent circular portal and, above, a good example of painted tiles in good state of conservation, with many floral ornaments. Very close to this house, nearly opposite, you can see one of the most representative posades in the town, la Posada de Bàlitx, also located in the street with the same name a t number 7. This posada, older than the previous one, belongs to the most genuine baroque style of the 17th century.
Following carrer Bàlitx, reach carrer de la victòria de l'Onze de Maig, which takes you on the left again to carrer de la Lluna. A few metres before reaching the square, carrer de la Lluna has another surprise in store, Posada de Can Prohom (number 16), built in 1758. Take a look at the wooden eave and the courtyard. You will then reach plaça de la Constitució, where this walk through the churches and posades of Sóller finishes.
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4. BINIARAIX
Coming from Sóller and before entering Biniaraix you find the old bridge of Biniaraix, rebuilt in 1886 after a great water rise swept it away. Now the road slopes uphill alongside the stream until reaching the village of Biniaraix, with the fragrance of the orange and lemon trees in the air, and the peaks of s'Arrom, els Cornadors and Puig de l'Ofre as a setting. Just before arriving, at a double bend in the road, walk up carrer Sant Guillem, a steep set of stone steps on the left, and stop for a moment to admire the views under the shade of the trees, as the Argentinean painter Francesc Bernareggi (1878-1959) used to do during the years he spent in the house on the corner (Es Pujador). Up the steps there is a little square with a stone fountain on the wall of the terrace of the house where the painter Juli Ramis used to live. Once you have quenched your thirst and leaving behind the recently cobble stone-paved carrer de Sant Salvador on the left, keep walking uphill surrounded by encased houses past rocks, lanterns, pots... and stone, always the stone as ornament. It seems that time does not pass in Biniaraix; solitude, silence and peace are always present in this medieval fairytale village. Next comes Ca ses Monges (Sant Guillem, 9), a former convent, kindergarten and girls' school run by the sisters or germanes de la Caritat. The next house is Ca s'Àngel (Sant Guillem, 7), where a smallwindow divided by pointed arches shows you where the convent chapel used to be. On the opposite side you can see Can Beia (Sant Guillem, 12) with a rustic wall and a remarkable round portal. Next comes the casal cultural, with a stone plaque remembering Master Miquel Bisbal and the place where the boys' school used to be (Sant Guillem, 1). Without even noticing it, you will have reached plaça de la Concepció. It seems that the square and the surrounding houses, Can Ribera i Can Det, used to be the old Muslim farm of Biniaraix, which was handed over to the Knight Guillem de Torrella by his uncle, the Bishop of Girona, after the conquest of Mallorca by King Jaume I. Can Det's main entrance is through number 2 carrer de Sant Guillem. It is a beautiful portal with long narrow voussoirs and a slightly squared round arch made of stone from Muleta and a white mulberry door with wrought iron studs. The part facing the square is the old oil mill. The main facade of Can Ribera faces carrer de la Trinitat (number 27) and the round-arched portal and the ashlars that are structurally linked to the lintel led upper window are remarkable. The frame is made of stone with redendered unions and small stone inlays. According to the inscription on the eave, the present building vas built in 1580. With an average state of conservation, the building shows an eave formed by three lines of decorated tiles and another line with no decorations. It is very interesting to look at the variety of decorations, presenting plant, geometric, anthropomorphic, astral and religious motifs, as well as the representation of work tools, all of them printed in white and red.
Supposedly, the construction of the Church de la Immaculada Concepció of Biniaraix started in 1587 on the initiative of the village people, but was not finished until 1634 when the Episcopal authority requested the addition of the sacristy and the painting of the altarpiece. The Church was confiscated in the 19th century and later restored and granted a new altarpiece, the present one. It was vicaria in capite from 1937 to 1989. The Church has practically no facade, since it is located at the back of the houses. The only noticeable item is the main portal, up a set of stone steps with a simple iron handrail, and formed by a double semicircular arch with a square window opening above it. On the left of the main portal, the 19th century belfry rises up to 19 metres. It is formed by four whitewashed sections of square ground plan and ends with a square pyramid covered by small white ceramic tiles. On the south wall there is a sundial. The Church has a 330 square metre nave and is 20 metres high. The barrel-vault roof is divided into five sections. On both sides of the nave there are three groin-vault chapels opening under round arches made of calcareous stone. The choir is in the first section and is held by three segmented arches with cone-shaped columns topped by a simple capital made of Santaní stone, with an iron balustrade and wooden pillars (19th century). The chapels are described starting anticlockwise from the main entrance.
The access to the Church is through the first chapel on the right. Next comes the chapel of the Heart of Jesus and after wards the chapel of sant Crist. The valls in the latter chapel and in the chapel of el Baptisme are partially tiled with blue ceramic. In the space dedicated to the altarpiece, there is a statue of sant Crist. Now comes the sacristy, where an 18th centurypainting of purgatory is kept. The next one is the main chapel, where a wooden altarpiece with a carving of la Immaculada Concepció stands out. In the chapel of el Baptisme you can see, standing apart, a baptismal font, donated by the marquesa de Zayas. It was the old water trough of the farm of Can Ribera. The chapel of Sant Antoni de viana, funded by the farm of Pla del Bisbe, has wooden altarpiece with a statue of abat Sant Antoni. Last comes the chapel of Sant Francesc, with a baroque altarpiece brought from Lloret de Vistalegre, a gift from Baró Pinopar, lord of the estate of Cas Don. The middle cavity is occupied by the statue of Sant Francesc. The Via Crucis in bas-relief, encased in caoba vases hanging from the pilasters, is also very interesting. They were bought at the beginning of the 20th century.
Once out of the Church, follow carrer de Sant Josep on the left up to Cas Don (Sant Josep, 10). It is a 17th century house with a sober portal opening under a semicircular arch, which is topped by the coat of arms of the barons de Pinopar. The facade is all stone with rendered unionscovered in mortar and inlaid with small stones. Take a look at the land tools and the segmented arch leading to the courtyard. On the lateral facade, under an eaved porch, you can see the hole where the olives used to be unloaded into the oil mill. Where the road takes a bend, you can see the public washing place still in use and probably built in the 17th century to take advantage of a small nearby spring. It is very interesting to observe the distribution of the washing place and the way in which the roof was built, as well as the water channelling system. In the small adjoining garde, there is a small monument (1995) honouring the scout groups of Sóller.
Walk back on carrer de Sant Josep and continue down carrer de la Trinitat, where there is another house with a decorated eave: Can Rei (number 32). On both sides of the street you will find interestings places, like number 12 or the small square with a garden on the right, reached by a set of stone steps. A few metres below, make out the stone plaque in the memory of painter Bernareggi. If you keep on going you will reach the entrance to the village, back again on carrer Sant Guillem.
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5. S’ALQUERIA DES COMTE
To visit the hamlet of s'Alqueria des Comte leave Sóller behind following carrer de la Lluna, which becomes carrer de s'Alqueria des Comte, where all the interesting parts of this route concentrate. It also leads to Biniaraix.
At number 18, you will find Can Pepo-rosso, a modernist building characterised by the use of stones of pinkish tonalities in the supporting beams. Further on, at number 51, you can take a look at the casal del molí de Can Negre, with its impressive portal. The next place of interest is the crossroads with Fornalutx and Biniaraix, where you find the bridge and the cross of s'Alqueria des Comte, built in 1886 on public demand, replacing the one that was being worshipped in a small chapel a few metres down below (1606). The latter one had been swept away a year before by the overflowing stream. The ashar cross is located on a plinth protected by iron railings. The shaft is octagonal and the cross has a relief of sant Crist on the front and floral ornaments on the ends of the arms. By the cross you will find ca na Lluïsa (Ozones, 1), one of the most typical modernist buildings in Sóller, which was spoiled by later alterations. On the way to Biniaraix you will find Ca n'Ozones (Ozones, 8), a house built in 1791 and subsequently enlarged, with a sober symmetrical facade featuring a round portal, a balcony resting on eight plain pilasters and a simple iron balustrade. On the other side of the street, there is a channel section of the spring or font d'Ullet, originating around a hundred metres above. It was probably channelled during the Muslim domination. You then finish the itinerary at the Church of s'Alqueria des Comte (Ozones, 26), which is an old chapel built and furnished in accordance to the testament bestowed upon Rome by Reverend Lluc Colom "Calobra" on Septembrer 19th 1677. The Church was already finished in 1694 and was administered by two butlers named by the Town Hall, who took care of the cleaning and worshipping. In 1920, the Bishop entrusted the chapel to the congregation of Sant Felip Neri. The friars soon bought the nearby house and plot of land to add a chapel to the Church, built the monastery and opened a boys' school which closed a few decades ago. The Church, which is beautiful due to its sturdy simplicity, is a stone and mortar solid construction with chipped corners. The facade is smooth with highlighted unions and inlaid with small stones as a decoration. Over the round-arched portal with large voussoirs, there is a circular skylight with a polychromatic window representing a cross. Crowning the previous lintel is a small stone cross and, on the next one, the belfry. The main portal is protected by an eaved wooden porch covered with tiles. There are two ways to enter the building: the main entrance, through carrer d'Ozones and the side entrance, through number 1 carrer d'Empúries. The Church has a rectangular nave with a surface of 71 square metres and a height of almost 8 metres. The barrel-vault roof is divided into two sections by a transverse arch, slightly jutting out, resting on plain pilasters. Over the pilasters and on the nave walls, there is very simple panelling. The presbytery is narrower than the nave and has a trapezoidal ground plan and a sky blue vault with stars in relief.
On the right wall, there are two large encased niches beneath semicircular arches projecting out. Inside the first niche is Sant Agustí with pontifical vest, crosier and an open book on his right hand. Inside the second one you will find a statue of the Heart of Jesus. On the pilaster supporting the arch, under a small baldachin, the statue of the Verge Miroculosa stands out resting on a pilaster with an angel in relief. The main chapel is dedicated to the Immaculada Concepció. In the wooden altarpiece a large painting is prominent. According to tradition, it was supposedly brought from Rome. It represents the Immaculada Concepció surrounded by angels with the images of Sant Lluc and the praying founder at her feet.
The upper section is occupied by a painting of Sant Bartomeu topped by the heraldic shield of the Colom family. A stuco plinth holds the tabernacle (1907) crowned by the Easter lamb over a multiradiated background. The grey-marble altar is held by red-veined columns. On the right chapel wall there is a painting of la Passió and on the left one a painting of the Verge Dolorosa (18th century). Under a semicircular arch on the left wall of the Church first section, the side chapel of Sant Felip Neri opens out. It has a square ground plan and a groin vault (1935). A polychromatic carving of Sant Felip Neri with his priest's habit on, in ecstasy over a cloud, is prominent in the wooden altarpiece. The image is placed in a niche with a shell, flanked by salomonic columns with a Corinthian capital. On the plinth you can see a panelling with shells and other decorations in relief on the frieze. The altarpiece ends with a painting of the bust of the white-bearded Saint with habit on and a rosary in his hands. On the right wall of the chapel there is another wooden altar with an altarpiece representing the scene of the apparition of the Mare de Déu de Lourdes to Bernadette. The niche is enclosed by a semicircular arch supported by two inlaid partially striated columns. On both sides of the altarpiece, two statues stand over corbels representing Santa Teresa de Lisieux, holding a cross and a bunch of roses in her hands, and Sant Antoni de Pàdua, holding the infant Jesus in his arms. On the pilaster on the left side of the nave, under a small baldachin, you can see the statue of Santa Teresa de Jesus with a walking stick and the infant Jesus in his left arm. Once out of the church, on the opposite side of the street (Ozones, 23) you will see a house of popular modernist style with floral ornaments and the lintel key stone in bas-relief.
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